Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – Glycolic & Lactic Acids

This family of products are the starting block of most physician recommended home skin care.  They have been used in various form for years (most famously by Cleopatra for her luxurious milk baths which contains lactic acid) and are becoming more and more recognized for their strong skin rejuvenation effects.  AHA creams are mostly dispesed under doctor guidance for home care though stronger levels exist for in clinic use.

Thickened upper layers of stratum corneum, a common condition of the skin, is a result of increased resistive build-up of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. This condition is not only physically unappealing, it usually lends itself to several other unwanted conditions such as comedone formation, milia, etc. There are two ways an esthetician can help to break down a thickened stratum corneum:

What is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid?

A naturally occurring compound with an –OH (hydroxy) group – see below for more information.

Glycolic Acids

Glycolic acid is the most common of all AHAs.  Though it is naturally occurring in sugar cane, pineapple, grapes, canteloupe etc. in the cosmeceutical world (due to very high demand) it is produced via a chemical reaction of chloracetic acid and sodium hydroxide.  Its strong skin penetrative capacity makes it ideal for use in the improvement of the skin’s appearance and texture.  It works in the upper layer of the epidermis by weakening the lipid bonds that hold the dead skin cells together.  Hence, exfoliating the stratum corneum it exposes the live skin cells below.  Stronger formulations and strengths are use for in-clinic chemical peels whereas the weaker acids are applied at home for maintenance.  The percentage of glycolic acid is a way to determine the strength of the product / peel.  Lower strength (about 8-15%) are use for inhome treatments and higher concentrations (20-70%) used for in clinic professional use.

Home Care Products:

Should consist of  three-four products including a face wash with a low concentration, day cream and a night cream.  Varying strengths are used by various patients depending on their skin condition.

Chemical Peels With Glycolic Acid:

Only to be done in clinic under professional supervision.  Together with a pre-course of AHA home products  glycolic acid peels are great for skin rejuvenation with improvement of fine lines, superficial spot, and other signs of solar  damage as well as damage to skin by overuse of skin cosmetics.

Sensitivity to AHA’s & Skin Dryness

Sensitivity to AHA itself is very low.  Though other products within the creams could cause more irritation.  It is wise to be selective in the brands you chose.  Though we note that woman who have become cosmetic addicts – ie. Using cocktails of moisturizers, serums, night creams, eye creams, vitamin a,e,c one brand after another further mixed with concealers and make-up have more reactions to some products within AHA creams than others.   Most of these woman if they are advised properly by their physician will find the need to use less of their creams and lotions once they start and go through with AHA treatments. They may find this difficult but the reward of clearer skin is great once they get over the initial phase of reversing their skin damage.  Mild stinging occurs initially in the treatment and this usually varies from person to person.

In our experience a lot of women complain of dry skin – though in actuality this is flaking of the skin which is mistaken for dry skin.  This is what AHAs are supposed to do!  AHAs do not cause skin dryness.  Infact, quite the opposite is true and hence lactic acid is also a prescription drug approved by the FDA to reduce dryness.   AHAs are humectants and increase the ability of the skin to retain water – Lactic acid is the stronger H2O retainer.

Do AHAs cause Thin, Photosensitive skin?

10% + glycolic acids can cause varying degrees of photosensitivity in various ethnic skin groups.   Hence, regular SPF Cream with UVA & UVB protection is recommended.

The thinning of the skin occurs due to the top layer flaking off.  This is the good effect which makes the skin smoother and clearer.   Another positive effect is that glycolic acid thickens the dermis layer (deeper) of the skin.  It is shown to increase the expression of type 1 collagen mRNA as well as the hyaluronic acid content of the skin

Glycolic acids are strong irritants.  It should not be ingested.

Application Tips Directions:

After cleansing your face and applying toner (if needed), squeeze a dime-sized amount of product onto your fingertips and apply a thin layer over the entire face, avoiding direct contact with the eyes (but it can be used around the eyes).

First-time users may notice a slight stinging sensation, which is normal. To avoid irritation, some first-time users should use the AHA solution once a day or once every other day (preferably at night) for the first few weeks. After prolonged use (4-6 weeks), you can apply the AHA more frequently, and eventually it can be used twice a day. However, for some people it may only be necessary to use the AHA once a day or once every other day. The frequency you should Alpha Hydroxy Acids completely depends on how your skin reacts so you may have to experiment with this product. If redness, dryness, or irritation occurs, cut back the frequency of application or discontinue use.

Sunburn Alert: This product contains an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that may increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun and particularly the possibility of sunburn. Use a sunscreen, wear protective clothing, and limit sun exposure while using this product and for a week afterwards.

AHAs have a drop-off rate, meaning they do not keep exfoliating past the dead surface layers of skin. Once AHAs have sloughed off the thickened surface layers of sun-damaged skin, their effectiveness tapers off. However, to maintain results, AHAs must be used on a regular basis.

AHA Advice:

The one you should use depends on what you are trying to achieve.   Most of the AHAs/PHAs we use are multipurpose  and can be used for a number of conditions including sun damaged or dry skin.

If irritation appears, do not give up, first decrease use to every other day or just once a day and you can have beautiful results.   Dryness is very rare and often confused with flaking of the skin which is normal as the dead cells are exfoliated.  With prolonged use the flaking stops

Some people want to know if they can use a scrub while using an AHA or BHA. Occasional use of a gentle scrub or a soft washcloth can be great for some skin types. Just be careful to gauge how your skin reacts before adding this once or twice a week step into your routine.

CosMedocs Verdict: Also, Special Thanks To Dr. A. Haq for his time and effort

Great products at great prices with excellent client satisfaction within a few weeks and much safer than laser treatments.  Results are excellent for anti-ageing, superficial spots and fine lines when combined with a series of glycolic acid peels with increasing intensity . Also this should be starting point of all skin treatments before vitamins, serums, hyalurinic acid is thrown in as well as the derma rollers.  Good clean skin with no dead cells and little pigmentation is an excellent base to paint a nice picture on.  All clients should seek their cosmetic doctors advice on the varying strengths/combinations and also for future tailoring of the products for your skin type.  Because of their gentle chemical exfoliating properties these products should be a part of your daily skin care regimen.

Benefits Of Glycolic Acid Peels

• slows down the aging process
• helps to minimize fine lines and wrinkles
• increases elasticity
• exfoliates dead skin cells
• stimulates natural collagen production
• minimizes pores
• improves texture of rough, damaged skin
• helps to even out skin discolorations
• normalizes oily, acneic, troubled skin
• smoother, fresher appearance

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